WALES

It was a long day of driving and ruins. Ruins and stones, stones and ruins. Also emotional. It's hard not to be sensitive to these ancient places that have seen so much. Some more than others. There's a spirit surrounding them, sometimes it's just a lot to absorb.

I'm also getting tired. Understandable after 2 weeks of long distance walking in Northumberland and another week of intense sight seeing. I'm hitting the travel wall. Thoughts of husband, garden, kitty, family are creeping in more and more. There is still a lot to devour here and I intend to. 

Wales isn't far from Castle Combe by the motorway across the Severn Bridge, though it's a "Can't get there from here" situation when your GPS is programmed to avoid it major routes.

Severn Bridge

Tintern Abbey sits peacefully and gracefully in the Wye Valley beside the River Wye, surrounded by wooded hills and steep cliffs. It's easy to see why the Cistercian monks chose this spot. The land holds the Abbey in a protective bowl. It has a feeling of complete calm isolation. Except for the ticket office, a small pub and a few cottages, the land surrounding the abbey doesn't seem to have changed. 


Founded in 1131 by Walter de Clare, Lord of Chepstow, it's everything the Cistercians are known for  - soaring largess and abundance. With its stained glass and vaulted ceilings, it would have been a rich monument to their faith. It was dissolved in 1536.

However it comes across, massive and stupendous, it was never very important and had an uneventful history. One of Tinterns most generous benefactors was Roger Bigod, who also built the broody Martin Tower at Cheptow Castle. More on him later.

The ruins today are a collection of constructions that spanned 400 years.

The crowning glory, the big church, was built between 1269-1301. It soars. You can stand alone in the doorways and almost see the monks gliding silently along the stone passages. The Cistercians don't do small.

In 1348 the Black Death swept the country and, although there is no  evidence for its impact on Tintern, the effects were the same in most monastic communities. It became almost impossible to attract new recruits for the lay brotherhood. Widespread changes in the economy, with feudal service giving way to a system based on wages, created a labor shortages following the plague. 

In the 1500s monastic life in England and Wales was brought to an abrupt end by the political actions of King Henry VIII. The Dissolution of the Monasteries was part of the king's policy to establish total control over the church in his realm. But in addition to severing links with Rome, their suppression was a considerable source of wealth to the crown. Even so, the brutal demise of some 800 religious houses between 1536 and 1540 was a major step that might have been made easier by the changing  opinion against the monasteries and what they stood for. By Tudor times, the monastic life was lost. 

Five years have past; five summers, with the length
Of five long winters! and again I hear
These waters, rolling from their mountain-springs
With a sweet inland murmur — Once again
Do I behold these steep and lofty cliffs,
Which on a wild secluded scene impress
Thoughts of more deep seclusion; and connect
The landscape with the quiet of the sky. William Wordsworth

When it became fashionable to visit wilder parts of the country in the late 18C,  the Wye valley became renowned for its picturesque qualities, and Tintern Abbey, then swathed in ivy, was rediscovered and visited by many famous seekers after the romantic and picturesque. Included in these artists were the painter JMW Turner and the poet William Wordsworth. His poem was entitled "Lines Written a Few Miles Above Tintern Abbey on Revisiting the Banks of the Wye During a Tour July 1798".

Whew. 

One of Turner's Works

Fun Stuff - a Sink

You Know Me, I Always Like to Find the Toilet.....

....And the Secret Stairway to Nowhere

Recessed Book Cupboards Are From the Original 12C Building

Cool Decoration With No Purpose Except Beauty
What Can You Put Up There?

Doorway into the Chapter House

Just Amazing

I was talking earlier about how these places have a feel, give off an aura. You can't help but feel the tranquility here. It's beautiful, welcoming and still

exudes peace, as was no doubt intended.

On the other hand, Chepstow Castle was dark, disturbing and full of turmoil. 

It wasn't just the hoards of school children on a trip, though it didn't help to be surrounded by  their screams and running around. Their teachers tried to corral them but kids are kids everywhere, it was like gathering spilled marbles. "Nigel don't run, Ian come here! Stop!"  They didn't care about the history, it was a playground with walls. 

In their defense most were very polite to adults, calling their teachers "Miss" and "Sir". It was to each other that the bullying and venom revealed itself. It was an interesting study, but didn't enhance the castle visit .

Everything Was Also in Welsh

Forbidding Chepstow Castle

Construction began at Chepstow in 1067, less than a year after William the Conqueror was crowned King of England. 

Chepstow Castle became the key launching point for expeditions into Wales that eventually subdued the rebellious population.

Great Hall

 Chepstow's Great Hall, begun in 1067, is the oldest surviving stone castle in Britain. Because of this, the site has a special significance to British history. At other castles original Norman structures have disappeared, but at Chepstow it's still possible to see and touch the remains of the first great building project in Wales. The Normans weren't the first to recognize the strategic position of Chepstow. The arch above the main doorway to the hall is made from brick brought from a Roman fort that once stood nearby. The hall was always the heart of the castle, and originally stood alone. Over the years, the castle was enlarged by a series of builders.

Inside the Great Hall

Inside the hall, powerful men mapped out strategy with other Welsh "Marcher Lords," planning invasions to wrest control of Wales from groups of powerful princes still holding most of the country. Besides the builder, WIlliam Fitz Osbern, a couple of Chepstow's other lords included William Marshal, earl of Pembroke, and Roger Bigod, earl of Norfolk. Depending on your perspective, these are some of the most important (or hated) men of Norman-Welsh history

I'm convinced the people who lived here weren't happy. The ruins themselves are bleak and ominous, perched over the river like a vulture. There's noting serene or romantic about this structure. Wales was a country of conflict and you can still feel it here. I haven't been to any of them but the castles built here were meant for business. Wales has been called the castle capital of the world, with 400 fortified command centers for defending the country. 

Following his conquest of Wales around 1283, Edward I built a formidable ring of castles, each a days march apart, to defend his acquisitions from Welsh rebellion. The line of defenses is known as Edward I's Ring of Iron.The king erected the castles of Flint, Rhuddlan, Builth Wells, Aberystwth, Conwy, Caernarfon and Beaumaris

Edward died from dysentery at Burgh by Sands, Cumbria. I saw his statue on the Hadrian Wall walk a couple weeks ago. This is becoming a Six Degree of Separation following Edward around! 

Maybe a Welsh Castle Crawl is in order! 

Symbol of Peace Amidst the Disturbance

While it's a treat to visit any castle, only a handful retain the ability to stir emotions hundreds of years following their demise. To stand in Chepstow's Great Hall, a symbol of the Norman victory over the Saxons and the conquest of England - a turning point in world history - is a special kind of thrill.

My favorite part was the Marten's Tower. 

In the end of the 1200's Roger Bigod III built a huge new tower on the south-east corner. This was to provide a suite of accommodation for noblemen of high rank. As well as the domestic apartments, Marten's Tower also included a private chapel, with richly carved decoration and a seat at either side for the priest.

Chepstow was also used for State prisoners during the Civil War, one Henry Marten, spent 20 years of comfortable captivity in the tower which now bears his name.

A Room in the Marten's Tower

Off to the Town!

A mix of Medieval and Georgian with some 1940's thrown in.

Chepstow is a Walled Town With Sections of the Gates and Wall Still Intact

v

I'm Learning Welsh! If I Need to Say This Ever

So Special Tiny Queen Says Hello With Her Wave

England is Just Over the Bridge

Not a Fan But Interesting All the Same

Horatio's House

I Love Signs

GoodBye or Hwyl Fawr

The Remains of the Day..............

The sun came out in full force by dinner. Afterwards I just didn't feel like sitting so I took an hours walk. I wanted to explore some paths I'd seen the other day. Half way through the walk the skies grew dark, thunder sounded. The ground was very muddy and slippery, but it didn't bother me. Soon I was out of the storm and walking through the woods on a comfortable path. The path came out about where I'd thought it would but didn't look for it when we'd ended the Redemption Walk.

As I came into the village the rain started heavily and continually. No hope now! The streets were empty except for two couples also enjoying the evening and laughing in the rain. They called "hello!" and we shared a moment as countryside companions. The lights were on in the cottages, people were in the pubs talking, laughing, eating. It gave me such a feeling of joy and peace to be part of it, muddy shoes, wet jacket and all.

The simplest things are usually the best.