CORNWALL AND BEYOND: EXETER

You know you're in Cornwall when.....

An Altar to Aidan Turner

Gotta Get Me Some!

Exeter Cathedral

In a way I've come full circle, my three children were born in Exeter - the New Hampshire one.

Exeter, like York, Canterbury, Lincoln , Carlisle and so many cities, was an important walled cathedral town. During the late 10th and early 11th centuries Exeter was a young and very different city. It was a Saxon stronghold, defending the area from Viking attack . There are some fine medieval buildings with beautiful detailing, passageways, a small section of the wall survives and is available to walk the ramparts, and of course, the great 800 year old cathedral.

Much of Exeter was bombed out in 1942, including the cathedral. The downtown is mostly the sterile boxes of that post war period.

Honestly, I'm Cathedralled-Out. If there isn't a state of this I'm starting it's awareness. After a while I'm just not seeing it as I should be. Not that it takes away from it's awe or exalted workmanship, that could never be done today. I just need a break.

Plaque Marking the Site of the South Gate to the City

I Don't Know Why This Medieval Ruin has Teddy Bears on It

The 1942 bombings destroyed St Catherine's Almshouses, built in 1457 to house men, later women, then married couples, then widows. It consisted of a chapel, kitchen and rooms. Encased in glass panels, entitled "Marking Time", the door shaped panels have pieces of medieval pottery and glass through to a Coke can that have been excavated by archaeologists during the building work and sandwiched between the panes. Apparently, the type of ring pull on a Coke can will help future archaeologists to date 20th-century artifacts with some precision.

Artists Rendering of St Catherine's Almshouse

Cabinet at St Catherine's

Chapel Facade

Chapel

And let's not stray too far from my trip that only ended a few days ago, my friends the Romans were here too.

We had lunch at the Tea on the Green facing the cathedral. These buildings were the only period shop fronts and residences I saw in Exeter. The tea shop had wonderful spiral stairs going up to what would have been the living quarters, and exposed timbers.

And an Oven!

St Martins church was consecrated in 1065. The Royal Coat of Arms over the front of Mol's was put in place 1596.

All along the same row of buildings facing the Cathedral green are houses built around 1500 for the cathedral canons.

Note the People Door in the Carriage Door

Door Detail

Narrow Medieval Streets

After a long day it's important to be able to have a retreat. That's part of the theme of this trip, to check out different areas and their finer hotels. Unfortunately the Alverton Hotel in Truro hasn't met my expectations. The first room I was in smelled musty, wasn't clean, and felt like it was furnished in 1940's Goodwill store rejects. Completely defeated, I was resigned to the traffic noise, the filthy windows and the lumpy mattress until I was talking to George, while lying on said bed, and he told me to get myself up and get a new room! It was all I needed. Within 20 minutes I'd lugged my stuff to new digs.

Sometimes your mate has the strength when you don't. You have to always stand up for yourself.

They gave me a better room, not a great room, but clean and comfortable.

The Alverton used to be a convent. Signs of the religious order are in the windows, the warren of halls and small rooms and the attached church. I've got a good shower, a desk, a TV and a firm mattress. And I can hear birds instead of the roundabout.