LAST DAY

The last walk, last day, last night. Rotherwick, river Lodden and Sherfield on Lodden. The hotel gave out walking route suggestions on  laminated cards. Let's go! 

I always like to end a UK trip with the countryside, a final communication with what I love doing where I love doing it. The peace that comes from walking clears my head for the travel day to come.The activity makes sitting for hours bearable. On the plane I can close my eyes and see the paths, fields and houses. And if I needed further memories, the nettle itching is good for that. 

"Old House" 

 At first I thought Rotherwick was a disappointment. Later, after walking around  a few times, I discovered it has a quiet secret side, one for walkers. An unobtrusive sign with the area footpaths shows walking is a popular and encouraged pastime. 

Walking directions sound like this: In front of the farmhouse turn left then right between barns and a red brick cottage along a green lane and beside a golf course, immediately right over a stile, cross the ditch by a humpbacked concrete bridge then in 100m ahead over a stile, along a field edge... 

Sometimes I have to read the directions a few times, especially when the path isn't marked or obvious and I've been cocky and don't have a map.

It's a kind of scavenger hunt. Find the right landmark, make the right turn, win the prize. 

Leaving the hotel  and setting out is exciting. What will the journey be like? Hours ahead of me to walk! 

I started on a paved lane for a short while then past the very pretty, and yes old, Old House.  The path was easy to follow. This summer there is a lot of cow parsley, or "gipsy lace", sort of like our Queen Annes Lace. Why grow ornamental flowers when you have such beautiful wildflowers and dried grasses?  Including the hedge roses, just blooming now.

Nettle Jungle

It's been a wet and chilly summer so far. I've worn a sweater every day, sometimes long pants. The wind can be raw. It's hard to believe June is almost over.

The walk followed close to the River Lodden re-crossing over foot bridges.

Lance Levy Farm is typical of farmhouses in this area. It's made of brick, square, with big wooden barns. One older outbuilding is still on staddle stones, raising the building to keep mice and rats out of the grain. The barns have been converted to contemporary homes. 

Building Raised on Staddle Stones

Lance Levy Farm

Backyard snooping is a perk to walking. Seeing the hidden spots at a slow speed gives you a view you can't get any other way. 

Crazy Cat/Plant Lady

Longbridge Mill is a restaurant but still grinds flour with its water wheel once a month. It's said to be haunted. The ghost walks down the stairs, rattles chains, then goes out and slams the door. 

Longbridge Mill

On the River Lodden

Some landowners are good about clearing the right of way and others make it difficult. I got into a lot of nettle today. 

On the Right Path

Dog Roses Are Blooming in the Hedgerows

Having gotten off track in the water meadows, a wet field of 4ft high grasses, I was relieved to have found the way. Not quite where the directions said but what matters is getting there.  On my way again!

A+ For Footpath Management!

Mill Farm is sweet, the water runs through and under the floor of the house.

Mill Farm

Almost Back Now

Back to Tylney Hall

Coming back now into Rotherwick and the familiar paths around the village. I found my feet slowing to take in every last minute. Breathe it in, feel the ground. I took a detour to do a village spin then the long way around the hotel grounds and golf course. After 8.5 miles my legs didn't want to stop. I was finally familiar with the fields and paths, the painted pony, the churchyard. Another place that touched my life in England as these experiences do. In their ways, they're all home to me.

I couldn't have gone nearly 160 recorded miles without the right companions, and here they are. Water, mud, lots of mud, nettles, tea shops, pavement, shopping, 5-star hotel carpets, sheep poo, cow pats, Roman stones, medieval castles: we've done a lot together. 

Rest well old friends! 

Half a mile past Mill Farm, just past the house called Winnells, right off the road (FP) and left along the field edge with wood on the left, In 400m left through hedge (WMA); continue along wood edge for 100m till it turns away left. Ahead here; right to Rotherwick. 

And straight on till morning!

GREYS COURT

Off to Grey's Court today! A National Trust property, and for now at least, there's some sun.

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There's no denying a Roman road when you're on one. The A30 is a major road that follows the line of the Fosse Way, a Roman route, that ran south-west from London to Lands End in Cornwall. It's 284 miles long. It is remarkable for its extremely direct route it is never more than 6 miles  from a straight line.
Oh those crafty Romans! 

 Roman roads are relaxing to drive on and make a change from the winding narrow single tracks. It's usually a chance for some to step on the gas. 


A little known Tudor bread crumb, Greys Court lies nestled in the lush rolling hills of the Chilterns in the Oxfordshire countryside. This picturesque home spent most of the last nine centuries under private ownership until 1969 when Sir Felix and Lady Brunner gifted the buildings and 280 acres to the National Trust. She was allowed to live here until her death. Though reconstructed there are parts of it that retain it's Tudor history. The kitchen is the best, and the original part. 

 Greys Court  stayed in the Grey family for several centuries. Walter de Grey, the Archbishop of York during the reign of King John and his son, Henry III, bought the land around 1239 and gave it to his brother, Robert. A beloved courtier to King John, Walter was present at the signing of the Magna Carta in 1215.

Greys Court changed hands a few times until it wound up  belonging to Francis Knolly and Catherine Carey. Catherine was the daughter of William Carey and Mary Boleyn.

Records state Greys Court came into the possession of the Knollys family in 1514 when Robert Knollys was granted the estate for the annual rent of one red rose at Midsummer by the newly ascended King Henry VIII.

The gardens are an inspiration. Lady Brunner worked on them herself and the present staff seem to have a true love for them as well as the talent. These aren't landscapers doing a job, they're true gardeners. I could have stayed here all day! 

What a difference between the over the top Tylney and these accessible garden rooms.  Lady Brunner liked secret places so there are doors and gates leading to surprizing spaces of flowers, herbs, structures and a 120 year old wisteria. The fragrance was intoxicating. I kept smelling the roses.

The Redder Turret Section is the Oldest

The Lavender Walk

The Vegetable and Berry Garden

With the charming and calm gardens in my head, ideas for my own projects, the happy feeling from the Brunner household and most of all the afternoon downpour past, I give Rotherwick another chance to redeem itself. The sun came out, people were gardening, talking, walking dogs, sitting outside the pub. It seemed the down-at-its-heels attitude was gone. 

In the eye of the beholder. 

GOODBYE COTSWOLDS, HELLO HAMPSHIRE

Leaving the Cotswolds, my favorite place, one final view of the hills and fields from the window at the Hollow Bottom pub in Guiting Power. The people are so friendly there, it's a cozy beamed and low ceilinged place with good food.
The Cotswolds are laid back and welcoming.

Hollow Bottom Pub

I'd never been to Hampshire, not really. I'd been to Chawton, where Jane Austen grew up, but I hadn't spent any time there. In the interest of the trip's theme of exploring new places, the Tylney Hall Hotel in Rotherwick was the last stop. I wasn't impressed.

Do You Care at All?

Rotherwick had a melancholy, cloudy attitude of "Whatever". Though it has two pubs and a pretty church, it seems to lack character. The name Rotherwick is derived from the Saxon words "rother" meaning cattle and "wick" meaning enclosure. It does sound nicer than "I live in Cowpen" .

The hotel used to be a manor house that was torn down and rebuilt in the early 1900's in the Tudor style. It was more stuffy  post-war Grandmother. The package was dressed well but don't look under the cushions. 

Good Thing There's a Remote Control

View From Room 21

The first room they gave me was so bad I walked right back out. It had two small windows up at the top of the ceiling so you couldn't even see out. Ouch. Nope... not happening. 

So let's check out the village....

Duck Pond Without Ducks - the DucklessPond

The Church in Rotherwick dates from the 13th Century, and the tower was added in the 18th century. It has no name because it's one of the rare churches not dedicated to a patron saint. 

See? They couldn't even be bothered to  find a saint! 

Taking Potshots

In the late 1800's there was a scare that French would invade so the local militia practiced their aim by firing muskets at the wall.




The Tylneys of Tylney Hall are buried here, the last one died in 1725.

Village Hall

Pretty Countryside

Allenmoor Lane is an ancient road used by drovers taking their cattle to the market at Reading 30 miles away. I always like the idea of these old roads and me joining their history.

Leaving My Mark

The gardens at Tylney are stupendous and I mean scale-wise. The design follows the traditional of formal Italianate, walled (now with a heated swimming pool), vegetable, rose and orchard. The water gardens were designed by Gertrude Jeykll. 

Afternoon Tea Splurge

Sometimes I feel Like I'm in a Bad Movie